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Monday, December 16, 2013

Y Wladfa



Chapter 1
Cold panic hastened nervous fingers belonging to the hesitant creature crouched aside a dark doorway. With so much riding on each moment’s fate, she was terrified to remain, terrified to run and terrified her plans could crumble. Should this escape fail, there was no hope.
Booted feet yearned to fly and leave a cruel man behind, but a locked door was a proper door, and so she, ever so quiet thank you, turned the chilly brass key until the tumbler clicked. Blue morning cloaked the oak door but did not muffle the one soft groan the wood made before it came silent. In trepidation, the girl gave away an anxious gulp of precious air, and watched as her breath mist rose heavenward then disappeared without a trace. There is a good girl, she complimented herself then tested the door with an open hand as one might thank an old horse. Her hand comforted the many nicks and stains, but now was not the time for remorse, it was the time for flight as the morning train would not wait at the station for one poor soul, and the ocean ship would sail from that distant quay afore noon. Now was the time for freedom.
Despite her urgent road to independence, the brave girl with the small bundle wavered for half a breath to brood over the many company homes. Though some with painted sills and here a potted plant and there a wheelbarrow, the comparable house rows came out all much the same, and therefore incompatible with her dream. After glancing again to be certain, she donned her bonnet, wrapped her scarf and steeled her resolve. On trembling legs attached to wobbly ankles, she turned to stroll as if to market, calm and pretty as you please. But, fly she must, hard heels making naught but a tamp upon the damp cobbled stone, and fly she did, but with a poise befitting Sunday stroll to chapel.
So dark, her road led up the tall hill past the black colliery where filth belched to heaven every day before blanketing the ground with foul mood at night. Now and then, late lanterns and early lamps shafted yellow pools. The air filled constant with soot.
She cut her flight, placed her small fortune down beside and using calloused fingers, more worn than the ancient lock she had just turned, the strong girl tightened the lacing on her button-up boots, one pair for market and for chapel, then tested the laces with both hands. Despite the dark of night, the worn boots shone polished and neat, and she admired her work with the aid of the night-sentinel light, which shown from atop the colliery while deep below her booted feet men toiled at coal seams and dreamt of the light of day. Nervous fingers tested stout lace a second time, lingering, hopeful that the knots were good and willing to hold for miles. There and now, it was time for the miles and many needed lest his cruelty find her. She hurried.
At the top of the hill, where three streets converged, she turned, keeping to the shadows and out of the light and stopped then held her breath. She was near to the entrance of the ugly colliery, close to the place where above ground men ceased to be and became something else again down there in those dark shafts. Such it was in many small villages across the valleys of Wales, hers being not so much different from others. Yes, streams wended different paths with roads leading in and out, some for the iron, some for the coal, but each village as different as they were the same, all for the good of England.
The now frightened girl heard voices. But with her heart pounding, please be soft and quiet, do not betray me, she could not tell from which road the voices carried. These shadowed streets held ghosts from those never recovered after the earth gave way but while the coal-crushed bodies remained below the spirits rose to haunt above. She leaned into a shadow and waited, afraid.
The voices became clear, not ghost voices thank you very much but human, and she knew them both. The two boys were her age and worked clearing slag. With her old wool coat hunched up around her vigilant ears, she held tight and listened.
“The day will come and we will beat them, beat them at there own game.” The voice carried trill in the early air and belonged Bevan Dawes. Bevan was an undersized lad, but fleet afoot and taken with sudden bursts.
“One day,” said Awstin Jones. This was much more than Awstin would speak in a week. He was the age of his companion with the thickness and width of a coal pony and, despite his tender years, would soon be underground to work his life away in the dark tunnels.
Bevan looked about then stared up at the sentinel light, which helped them find their way to the tall hill and then down to the growing heap of slag. “One day the waste will cover all those downhill homes, I’ll wager,” he said. “Plenty of work for us.”
From Awstin there was no reply and the boys entered into the colliery following the lighted path to their job beyond.
Later in the night than her preparation allowed, the soon to be missing girl hurried from her shadow, swift and careful down the cobbled stone as a hint of the approaching day began as a slight seam to the east. This coming day held everything, all of it new, all of it exciting, but there was still the one stop she had to make.
The cold wrought iron squeaked a complaint yet the graveyard gate yielded to her careful open hand. All around were the sounds of an awakening: a cock crowed, a maid emptied a bucket and as always, two rough men engaged in drunken singing. Now she thought of her own duties left undone, who will care for my poor dishes, and despair nearly took her but she glanced down to see dew form water droplets on her black boots, and the sight of something new and clean appearing against something old and dark encouraged her.
As the night turned morning from a blue hue to a white mist, she curved into a familiar row and knelt between the familiar markers. On her left was her father’s grave and on her right, the eternal resting place for her dear mother. She placed her small tidy package, her fortune, upon the damp green grass and opened the bundle with care then removed her bonnet and scarf and drew a cloth napkin from her bundle. The napkin was white like a fresh spring cloud, and she used it to wipe the coal soot from the grave markers. Even here, in this special place, the effects of the discharge from the chimney that loomed above like an evil tower in a witch’s tale ruined the hallowed ground. She wiped her father’s marker first then her mothers and then tugged a bit of grass from the border of her mother’s marker. Not knowing what to do with the greenery, she placed it on her bundle.
From her folds, she produced two yellow roses. Unbeknownst to her master, she had walked a long road to a distant village and back in one day just to have these two fine roses for this special morn. Now, cold hands placed one rose on each cold grave.
“I am sorry. I cannot tell when I might come again.”
Moisture welled in the corner of an eye.
“Oh, I miss you both so, it is terrible hard to be leaving you.”
A single tear dropped from a ruddy cheek and landed upon a button-up boot.
“There will be none left to tend you.”
A sad breath escaped her thin lips.
“Mother, only your good sister, Meinwen, has answered my pleas. She helped me fashion a plan to break from this place, this life. Oh, I do not wish to leave you here unattended.”
The caring girl touched a drop of dew on one boot, studied the teardrop on the other and moved to brush them away but thought better of it and then did not.
“I am down to Cardiff and a meeting with Meinwen. With her help, I sail for Y Wladfa, the colony in far Patagonia this very day. Meinwen and her husband have been at Y Wladfa now these fifteen years, and she tells me I will love it. I cannot stay a day longer in service with that man. I tried so very hard, but master needs more than a housemaid and such duties are not for me. I need my own life, and I shall not ever find it here.”
She sobbed.
“Oh, I wish I were as strong as you father.”
Her soft voice scattered across the solemn burial ground like dry leaves influenced by an autumn breeze.
“This is so very bitter. I cannot stay and I cannot take you with me. I will always love you both and promise to pray for you each Sunday at chapel.” 
Alarmed, the distressed girl stood and glanced about but there was no one to hear. Just then, a dowdy crow winged to land at the wrought iron gate. Go away, she thought, and to her surprise, the black crow flapped north toward the colliery. 
After studying several neglected markers, tears flowed free from both eyes.
“Weeds will creep in and I am sorry for this. With no one to mind the keeper, his laziness will allow disarray. I wish it were not so, but what can I do?”
She knelt again to her bundle, this time wrapping it tight and including the bit of border grass. In a thought, using a finger, she brought up soil from each grave and with a few blades of grass from her father’s resting place, she added to her fortune. “There, I can take you with me,” she said to comfort herself.
Sudden, she cocked her head, faithful ears please be mistaken, I cannot be found, but the rhythm came again and she admitted to the footfalls, someone was coming and coming quick. She glanced about with haste and need; a short distance was a larger marker and she dove for it. She cowered behind the slab of etched granite that marked an unknown life and held her breath. She dropped her head but her eyes spied her mistake. Oh, no, I am lost. Between her parent’s markers were her belongings, her fortune, and no one walking the graveyard could miss it and anyone questioning the package would discover the run away owner. Now, the heavy footsteps came on at good pace, turning from the road, straight through the iron gate and right onto her hiding place.

Wednesday, December 4, 2013

Dhaulagiri



The Approach
     Slow dew drummed the doorstep like the dying of a beating heart.        
     “I’m not going.”                                                                                                                        
     “Why not?”
     “The timing isn’t right.”                                                                                                  
     “Conditions are as good as they get.”
     “Would you go, up there, with him?”                                                                                          
     Etched from time and hardened by weathers, the Ranger’s face complimented him. Though the debate had sputtered along for some time, the Ranger’s voice remained deep, smooth and calm. “I have. Something like that takes two. Quit’n on short notice aren’t ya.”
     “Nope,” said the wide-eyed young man. “I don’t think he can do it. Do you think he can do it?” The second man was short, stocky and carried a bit of a college-boy’s belly. “Told him I’d meet him here this morning but I never said I’d go.” His brown eyes flashed as he rubbed his light-brown hair but his eyes remained downcast because they could not meet the Ranger’s gaze. 
     The Ranger listened and after sorting what he heard said, “He’s counting on you. Something like that takes two. Two working like one. Haven’t I seen you training together?” The Ranger squinted hard at the young man before him.
     The young man brushed the toe of a shoe with the sole of the other. “Sure, we’ve been training together. I never said I’d go. I said I’d be here this morning and we’d see. You don’t think I’m scared do ya.”
     The old man looked long at the younger. “Chan, there’s always plenty of afraid.” He tipped his hat back then frowned and smiled simultaneously using different ends. “But if’n a man wants the mountains, he has to pay the mountain price…Come on and help me open up. Be lots of folks through here today. Supposed to be three or four days of fine weather.” The Ranger spoke at the young man. “Good climbing weather.”
     “Will he be mad?” Chan placed his hands in his pockets. “Mad about me not going?”
     “Here, hold these reports while I open this lock. I can never get this damn door open.” The Ranger waited for the hands to come up then gave over the papers. “I’ve tried fixing it so the door swings easier and the lock’s easier to get to then the dern weather blows right on around, and the lock gets water inside n’freezes up. Damn doors never swing the way ya want em.” He opened the lock and the door then remembered. “Put those reports there on top of the cabinet.” The Ranger swung the door wide and entered. “Wouldn’t you be mad if things were reversed? He’s wanted to finish that route since he failed at it. Have a seat.” The Ranger gestured.
     Chan followed and descended to the chair in the corner of the room but kept the papers in his lap. His hat was on straight. Relaxing his arms behind his head, he watched the Ranger, who prowled across the room, using long strides with head and neck bent forward as if he were about to walk across the country, but now the intention was to unlock each of the four cabin windows from the inside. The Ranger ended his route at the threshold where countless lugged soles had passed.
     The Ranger knitted his brow, glanced at Chan, eyed the small pool of dew at the doorstep then progressed out to the porch proper where the view was one of distinct layers, green giving way to gray then to brilliant white.
     The white at the head of the valley was White’s Mountain, named after a prospector, who ventured up the valley searching for riches and whose faded black and white tintype hung in the tiny ranger cabin. In the ancient photo, bucket in hand, prospector White smiled alongside a nameless mule. Soon after the photo was developed, White departed with his dream but never returned from his search as if the mountain swallowed him whole, mule and all. 
     The Ranger turned from his tranquil view to stare through the open door to the young man in the corner. “Will Brian be here soon?” he asked.
     “He said first light and its light. Maybe he isn’t coming. Maybe he doesn’t want to come.”
     “Chan, you know he will be here and put them papers where I said. Do you think you own the place?” The Ranger turned his back and waited.      
     Chan placed the papers on top of the cabinet, straightened them and joined the Ranger on the porch before the mountain. “Would you climb with him? I know you were his teacher but would you climb with him now?”
     “I’d climb with him and have. There’s nothing wrong with him. He certainly isn’t lazy like some.”
     “Well the guy maybe killed one climbing partner and just maybe another. He’s been injured real bad and couldn’t walk for a long time.” Chan waited for the return but nothing then took a deep breath and said, “About three months ago, he comes over to my place and asks if I want to do some climbing. I’m always looking for someone to go with so I say, ‘sure’ and we start climbing together. I don’t know what he once was but he isn’t smooth anymore. He is strong all right and not a bad guy to be around but he just isn’t smooth.” Chan glanced up at the Ranger. “He is so quiet sometimes it’s spooky.”
     “There’s nothing wrong with quiet. Maybe more should practice it.”
     “You’re on his side.”
     “Chan, first off I don’t believe in sides I believe in the middle. It makes life a whole lot easier. Maybe more should practice it.” His voice was calm and even, fatherly. “Sure, Brian’s had his problems, and he’s gone through a lot trying to get over them. His life has given a lot of folks around here plenty to talk about.” The Ranger squared his hat. “That’s the way it is and nothing can change what has happened…I’m sure he wishes he could reach back and do over.” The Ranger’s voice flowed like a deep pool in a wide river.
     “There was that business on that big mountain in the Himalayas. Come on now. What do you think? Tell me.” Chan’s voice rose and almost squeaked; he brushed at the moist wooden planking with a hesitant toe and stuffed his hands in his pockets.
     The Ranger said, “I wasn’t there. I can’t say. He did what he had to do.”
     Chan said, “I don’t want him to do what he has to do to me. I don’t like the way this feels. He’s trying to prove something or ready for suicide.”

The Route
Dhaulagiri is one of the highest mountains in the world. Positioned in a remote Asian country, the mountain shadows the world’s deepest river valley. In Tibetan, Dhaulagiri translates to the rock that stands alone. 
~
     They say that when moisture falls on the Himalayas, it descends by weight and warmth to the sea only to return to the mountains via the monsoon. Life is a mountain that stands over us, filling our perspective much as a child at its mother’s knee or the eager student before the wise teacher. Existence waits with great patience for that instant when our hopeful soul locks onto and accepts the immensity of being. From that moment, we go forward, go around or go back but no matter the path, fate has found direction.
     Red beret bouncing, the older climber jogged down the trail and was soon far ahead and out of sight but today Brian didn’t care about first or time or training because the gentle mountain air seemed different. Around the last bend in the trail, he noticed a woman sunning herself on a hard gray boulder, a glacial erratic.                                                      
     The red beret had bounced passed without slowing or hesitation, but Brian slowed and stopped.        
     “Hi.”
     The woman casually turned from her position. “Hello.”                                     
     “Excuse me miss, but is there a beach near here?”
     “No and there isn’t any peace and quiet either.”
     “I’ve never seen anyone bagging rays up here. Only people you ever see up here are climbers, sometimes picnickers. Trail’s too steep for most.”
     “I didn’t think it was that bad.” She glanced down the now empty trail and then at the man. “Was it tough for you?” Her hair was long and blonde. The shiny-blue swimwear she wore accentuated her pink lips and bright-blue eyes.         
     Brian rubbed his eyes. “No. I mean I come up here all the time.” Though he was not moving, he tripped. “I’m a climber.”
     She studied him and then coy. “I thought you were a surfer.”     
     “No, there isn’t any surf around here, long way to the ocean. Lake can get some big waves on it if it gets windy.”
     “Oh.”                                                                                                                                        
      Brian paused and thought for a moment. “You’re giving me a hard time aren’t you?”         
     “Am I? What makes you think that?” The woman fluffed her hair.                      
     “Sorry.” He stepped forward, and the motion soothed his voice. “Can I start over? My name is Brian, Brian Scott.” The moment created confidence. “What’s yours?”
     “Kathryn,” said the woman on the rock.

Friday, September 20, 2013

Tiger!

I really wanted to see a tiger. Past efforts sent me looking in Indonesia, Cambodia and Thailand as well as many months poking into the various tiger habitats of India and Nepal. I had seen tracks and was close on several occasions, including a wonderful- there he is right there- instant when atop an elephant in Manas, but I did not have my tiger. I have seen cheetah, lion and leopard in Africa. Watched a Jaguar swim a river in Peru, a cougar followed me while I hiked alone here in Montana, and I had a tiny speck on a distant dry hillside in Tibet pointed out to me as a snow leopard. But still no tiger, despite that the species is the largest and territorially most successful of all the cats. Yes, the leopard does occupy a larger area range, but where their territory overlaps, tigers do prey on leopards. Indeed, the tiger is alone among the large cats in that it has no natural predator, nothing looks at the tiger and thinks—meal. Hyenas prey on lions, leopards and cheetah. Wolves, coyotes and sometimes, though rarely, bears prey on cougars, which is also true for the snow leopard. While the South American jaguar must always be wary as it is on the dinner menu for anacondas and crocodiles. I could say, with a sense of humor, it is a jungle out there and that is what helps to make the tiger so unique.
In 2000, just after I met the woman of my dreams, I was in Nepal and on my way to Royal Bardia, a beautiful park lying in the Gangetic plains of western Nepal hard against the border with India. I had traveled via the impossible long overnight bus ride from Kathmandu, 12 hours of too loud music played over a long since worn out speaker system. As it grew just light enough to see, the crowded bus stopped in the wee early morning, and I climbed and crawled off the bus then stood along the road waiting for my just now awake eyes to adjust. A voice asked from the darkness, “are you John?” then a hand touched my shoulder. I replied then the hand guided me to a waiting safari car. The light grew steadily as the driver introduced himself before we began down the road for the resort where I would stay.
Very early the next morning, I bounced along in that same safari car with the same driver and a guide named Mohan, with us where two people from England, Neil and Liz Pitts. The couple really wanted to see a tiger, perhaps as much as I did. Our guide’s plan was to have us down by an oxbow of the Karnali River well before first light. He knew a spot where tigers often swam the river for the day protection of the national park after leaving the fields and villages, where they roamed at night. We sat quiet and expectant, waiting while the light. The heat grew, but no tiger. Oh well. We motored along in our safari car, checking several less well-used river crossing sites. We saw lots of deer and a rhino, but no tiger, not even a track. Mohan told us we would check one more place, a place where he sometimes saw wild elephants and then we would return to our lodge.
Our guide was first down the misty trail then our driver followed by Neil then his wife Liz. I brought up the rear. Damp low morning clouds rose like smoke. We were almost to a braid of the river, when the path broke out of the sal forest and into tall riverine elephant grass. In a tree to our right, across a good stretch of open ground from the main forest, was a large agitated troop of macaques, Macaca mulatta. Our trail went near this tree then down through the tall grass to the river. Our guide and driver were through the grass to the riverbank and Neil was almost to them when we heard the growl.
We all heard the growl.
Liz stopped short with me at her shoulder. She looked ahead to her husband and I looked right into the grass. The growl came again and had I the nerve I could have bent down and stroked the fur on the big cat’s head! But the tigress acted first, she reversed and raced through the grass out across the open river bank then threw herself into the river eventually disappearing on the opposite bank. Despite the distance covered, this took less than the time for one rapid breath.
At once, the macaques jumped down from the tree and hurried across the open ground to the forest.
The five of us gathered on the riverbank, in the open. With nothing near enough to hide anything large, we looked about and nervous-blinked our eyes until Mohan laughed then we all laughed that anxious laugh of the survivor.
Back at our safari car, we surmised that the tigress had come upon the monkey troop as they went to the river for a drink. No doubt, she surprised them and they rushed up into that isolated tree to avoid her, but then they were cut-off from the forest. The tigress knew her business, the day would heat, and the macaques would have to find shade or roast in the hot sun. If they stayed up in the tree, the heat would kill them. It was a matter of time before one of the monkeys made the dash for the deep forest and safety. What the tigress had not planned on were tourists coming along and ruining her hunt.
To this day, the sound of something heavy swishing in the grass makes me stop. And sometimes, late at night when I wake with a start, I can still hear the growl, feel the tigress near. We were lucky, all of us, that day, the tigress chose to run rather than change her menu. It was ever so spooky to be so near such a large predatory animal and not see her until she became angry with us and snarled her warning. There are those times when adventure becomes a tad too adventurous.
Last on my cat list is the cloud leopard. I understand they are difficult to see in the wild as they spend their lives up in the canopy and avoid contact with humans. This last little bit of information suits me just fine. Cheers. 

Postscript: I wrote this years ago for my friend, Susan Sharma at the India Wildlife Club and for one reason or another she didn't publish it. Then I found it while looking for something else this morning. Seems like a long time ago but the memory holds strong.  




Monday, April 8, 2013

Sacred India and Nepal













For more information on or questions about this adventure please contact me at mtwriterjohn@gmail.com. Hope you can join us. Kindest regard, John